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64 Impala rides like a boat

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8.8K views 12 replies 7 participants last post by  dcairns  
#1 ·
Hi guys, this my first post so if I do something wrong please correct me.
I have replace almost every part of the front and rear suspension (shocks, bushings, ball joints, control valve, sway bar links and tires). The car still floats down the road. On certain roads it seems to corkscrew somewhat. It seems the shocks aren't working. When you push down on the rear of the car it moves pretty easily. The springs, front and rear are fairly new but of unknown origin. The shocks are new Monroe's. Does it need KYB heavy duty shocks. Will that calm it down a little? Thanks for your input.
Phil
 
#2 ·
I used Monroe Sensa-Trac shocks, HD springs (still stock, but listed as HD or SS) and poly bushings, BF Goodrich T/A Radial tires and a thicker Addco sway bar on my 64, and the ride is much better. No more of that floating out of control feeling. But it is still a comfortable ride. I can recall putting some KYB Shocks on the car back in the 80's, and the ride was too harsh. But I am sure KYB shocks of the 80's and now are different animals.



 
#3 ·
Ahoy Phil welcome aboard matey!

You didn't specify the model Impala you owned but I can guess that it is a 1958 to '64 X-frame car.

That series of cars was intentionally designed by a staff of hundreds of engineers putting their collective best effort into making your car the most flexible, easy riding car on the road at the time. It behaves like a bowl of Jello intentionally, because a room full of marketing guys sold the bean counters on the idea of having a car that road like a skiff on a smooth mill pond. They wanted you to float along the road bed without a care in the world.

The sales pitch at the time (bear in mind we had just come off the highest aeronautically inspired period of fins and bullet nosed projections with jet intake turn signals, and jet exhaust tail lights in history) so the sales campaign was based on jet flight. They advertised the car's handing as "Jet Smooth".

For those who have flown recently an explanation is in order. Before global warming if you flew above 20,000 feet you where above 95% of all weather and turbulence. Today because of global warming you can hit clear air turbulence at 35,000 feet, and super cells are now topping 45,000 feet which is nearly at the edge of the atmosphere (or at least 97% of it).

The car has a an X frame which means each corner can move four feet or more without breaking the car in half.



It has a coil spring at each corner of the car. Older cars such as the very popular 1955-'57 Chevys used a ladder frame with coils up front and leaf springs in the rear. The marketing guys though that was too much like a lumber wagon and wanted to soften it up.

The shocks are valved to float over bumps not to dampen road oscillations. The car with power assist can be steered by your elderly maiden aunt using just the pinky finger of her gloved left hand without effort or feedback from the road. The wide wrap around windows where to give you the illusion of riding on a magic carpet inside an air conditioned glass bubble. The tires had nearly half of the total tire height as side walls to absorb bumps.

Today we copy the looks and handling of German sports car. This was undesirable and the oposite of the intentions of the designers of the X-frame Chevy. It will be expensive and difficult to drag this car into the modern age of having a car the stops and goes quickly, drives where it is pointed without wandering, and turns without rolling the fender tops down to meet the water line as she heels over hard in a turn.

These cars do behave like boats.



Big dave
 
#4 ·
Thanks for the input guys. Your description of the X frame cars is right on the money. When I had my other 64 it was 49 years ago and it seemed to handle and ride pretty good. What did I know at 19 years old? I will enjoy my "new" 64 as is and remember it is 49 years of old technology.
 
#6 ·
It sounds like you have done most of the things that I have done, except for the springs. Have you considered changing the springs? I know changing the front springs is a tough job, but the rears are easy. I used the Moog 658A front and 6033 rear springs. The 658A springs are listed as Super Sport and the 6033 are listed as Heavy Duty
 
#9 ·
I felt like my 63 did the same thing....so I had 15x7 inch cragars mounted on 215 60 15s Radials of course.....what a difference in ride from the 775 14s on 6 inch rims...plus air shocks in the rear what a difference
Getting away from a nylon bias ply construction on a narrow 86 percent profile is the biggest improvement you can make to the cars handling. Suspension improvements start with the tire. Handing improves with the larger the contact patch your tire makes with the pavement. Everything else in terms of suspension work is dedicated to keeping that contact patch firmly planted flat on the ground regardless to what forces are being applied to the car by inertia (enforcing Newton's first law, by countering the forces using his second and third laws).

Changing the spring rate to something about three to four times what the factory recommended, and increasing the volume of fluid in your shocks, and changing the valving to stiffen compression and more importantly dampening rebound, as well as adding supplemental springs (in the form of torsion springs most call anti-sway bars or anti-roll bars) can keep your car going straight and level or tracking as intended in a turn while still remaining level but only if your frame is stiff enough not to deflect much when forces are loaded upon it. You need a good foundation and most 1958-'64 B-bodies where built with a limp noodle frame. Boxing in the frame's C-section and reinforcing the torque box helps, but not as much as a full cage and perimeter bars to form a full frame will.

Though I doubt if anyone is going to go that far (building a '64 into an all out road race car able to compete in auto cross, NASCAR road racing or SCCA racing). It would be an interesting experiment if you documented the changes each improvement made in performance at each step in the upgrade. It would be expensive and irreversible.

Big Dave
 
#8 ·
I have replace almost every part of the front and rear suspension (shocks, bushings, ball joints, control valve, sway bar links and tires). The car still floats down the road. On certain roads it seems to corkscrew somewhat. The springs, front and rear are fairly new but of unknown origin. The shocks are new Monroe's.
Phil
That just sounds like worn springs to me. I've experienced the same symptoms on my 66 with original springs.
Were the springs that you used brand new?
 
#10 ·
Despite the frame's tendency to twist and bend, the upgrades I did tamed the car to something close to a modern ride (at least compared to my 03 Silverado SS truck ;) ). In my opinion, it is just right, soft enough to be an Impala, firm enough to be in control.

I didn't mention the tires I have, they are Diamond Back III
245/60R14, which are BF Goodrich T/A Radials with a white wall vulcanized onto them. So they are a firmer tire with a wide contact patch.



 
#11 ·
Thanks for all the input. When I got the car last fall I pulled the suspension apart. I replaced the upper ball joints and the lowers had already been done. Replaced all the control arm bushings front and rear with stock pieces. Added a rear anti sway bar and replaced a noisy pig at the same time. The tires are new yesterday along with a front end alignment. 235/60xR15 on rear and 205/70xR14 front. Have checked the springs and they are the same height for the front and the same height height for the rear (side to side). The springs appeared to be nearly new with no rust what so ever. New Monroe shocks front and rear and new anti sway bar bushing front. I'm sure heavier spring and shocks would help, but for now I will live with what I have$$$$.
Phil
 
#13 ·